Siliguri, West Bengal — the gateway to Darjeeling, Sikkim, Bhutan and the North East
The Old Silk Route: Zuluk & Nathang
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The Old Silk Route: Zuluk & Nathang

Thirty-two hairpins, a valley at 4,100 m, and homestays with wood stoves

4 Nights / 5 Days1N Aritar · 2N Zuluk or Lungthung · 1N GangtokBest: March to June, and September to DecemberBagdogra (IXB) or New Jalpaiguri (NJP)

About this trip

The old trading road from Kalimpong to Lhasa, closed to commerce since 1962 and open to travellers since the mid-2000s. It is the best driving in the Eastern Himalaya and it is not a hotel holiday.

You stay in village homestays at 2,000 to 3,000 m. They are warm, the food comes out of the family kitchen, and the bathroom is basic. In exchange you get Thambi View Point at dawn with thirty-two hairpins stacked below you and Kanchenjunga behind, and a valley at 4,100 m where nothing much has changed.

If you want a bathtub, this is not your trip and we would rather tell you now. If you want the drive, there is nothing else like it in India.

Trip highlights

  • Thambi View Point at sunrise, the thirty-two hairpin bends
  • Nathang Valley at 4,100 m
  • Kupup Lake, Elephant Lake and the old Baba Mandir bunker
  • Aritar Lake and the Rongli valley
  • Rhododendron on the high ridges in April and May
  • Homestay food and wood stoves at 3,000 m

Day by day

This is the plan as we would run it. Days can be swapped, dropped or added — say what you want changed and we will rebuild it before you pay anything.

1

Day 1

Arrive, drive to Aritar via Rongli

Met at Bagdogra or NJP and driven into East Sikkim via Rangpo and Rongli, where the protected-area permits for the Silk Route are issued against your original ID. Aritar by evening, beside its lake, at a comfortable 1,500 m.

Permit formalities at RongliAritar Lake
Stay: AritarMeals: Dinner
2

Day 2

Up the hairpins to Zuluk and Nathang

The day the trip exists for. The road climbs through Lingtam and Padamchen and then throws itself up the mountainside in the famous switchbacks. Stop at Thambi View Point to look back down at them. Over the top to Nathang Valley at 4,100 m, and back down to the homestay.

The thirty-two hairpinsThambi View PointNathang Valley at 4,100 m
Stay: Zuluk or LungthungMeals: Breakfast, dinner
3

Day 3

Kupup, the lakes, and the high ridges

A full day along the ridge: Kupup Lake, the Elephant Lake, the old Baba Mandir bunker, the Tukla valley and the memorial, and the highest golf course in the region. This is the stretch where the rhododendron is unreasonable in late April.

Kupup and Elephant lakesOld Baba MandirTukla valley
Stay: Zuluk or LungthungMeals: Breakfast, dinner
4

Day 4

Down to Gangtok

Off the ridge and across to Gangtok, four to five hours, for a hot shower and an evening on MG Marg. The contrast is the point.

Descent to GangtokMG Marg
Stay: GangtokMeals: Breakfast, dinner
5

Day 5

Gangtok to Bagdogra or NJP

Down the Teesta, five hours. Flights after 1 pm.

Transfer to IXB or NJP
Stay: Departure dayMeals: Breakfast

Where you stay

Hotels are named on your written itinerary before you pay. The properties below are the ones we normally use in this band; if one is full on your dates we substitute a hotel of the same standard and tell you which, rather than leaving you to find out at check-in.

Aritar1 nightSmall resort or good homestayTypically: Aritar Lake Resort · or similar
Zuluk or Lungthung2 nightsVillage homestay: clean, heated, shared-standard bathroomsTypically: Family homestays, allocated on arrival by the village rota
Gangtok1 nightStandard to deluxe, near MG MargTypically: Summit Newa Regency · or similar

Getting around

The whole Silk Route section is run in a Bolero, Sumo or Scorpio with a driver who does this road all season. It is not a route for a sedan and we will not send you up in one.

Up to 4 travellers normally ride in a Wagon R, Swift Dzire or similar; 5 to 7 in an Innova, Xylo or Scorpio; 8 and above in a Tempo Traveller or a second vehicle. On the North Sikkim and Silk Route legs the vehicle is always a Bolero, Sumo or Scorpio, because that is what those roads take.

What is and is not included

Included in the price

  • Accommodation on twin sharing in the hotel category booked, with all applicable taxes
  • Daily breakfast and dinner at the hotel, unless stated otherwise for a particular night
  • All transfers and sightseeing by private non-air-conditioned hill vehicle, exclusively for your group
  • Driver allowance, fuel, tolls, parking and inter-state road taxes
  • All permits and inner-line documentation required by the itinerary
  • Pick-up and drop at Bagdogra airport (IXB) or New Jalpaiguri station (NJP)
  • A named trip coordinator reachable by phone for the length of the trip
  • Silk Route protected-area permits issued at Rongli
  • Homestay accommodation with all meals on the Zuluk nights

Not included

  • Air and rail fare to and from the start point
  • Lunch, and any meal not listed as included
  • Entry tickets and camera fees at monuments, parks and viewpoints, unless a line above includes them
  • Any ride, activity or excursion marked optional in the day-by-day plan
  • Room service, laundry, telephone calls, tips and anything of a personal nature
  • Travel insurance and medical costs
  • Cost of any extension, detour or extra night caused by weather, landslide, roadblock, strike or another event outside our control
  • Anything not expressly listed under what is included
  • Any personal trekking or pony hire
  • Heater charges where a homestay bills them separately

Booking, payment and cancellation

How booking works

  • A written itinerary with named hotels and one all-in price is issued before any payment is taken.
  • Booking is confirmed against the advance; hotel and transport vouchers are issued once it is received.
  • The balance is payable before the trip begins, unless a different schedule is agreed in writing.
  • Peak-season travel (mid-October to early January, and mid-April to early June) is held on shorter cut-offs and may need full payment earlier.
  • Rates are held against the dates quoted. A change of dates is re-quoted at the rates for the new dates.
  • Government levies, permit fees and entry charges are charged at the rate in force on the day of travel.

If you have to cancel

  • Cancellations must reach us in writing. The date we receive that message is the date we use.
  • What we can return depends on what the hotels, transport and permit offices have already charged us. Those deductions are passed on at cost, without a markup from us.
  • Permits, entry tickets and train or air tickets already issued are governed by the issuing authority and are usually non-refundable.
  • Peak-season bookings carry tighter terms because hotels hold us to tighter terms. These are stated on your confirmation.
  • No refund is due for unused nights, unused services or an early departure once a trip has begun.
  • A road or pass closed by weather is not a cancellation. We rework the day; costs already committed to third parties cannot be returned.

Your written confirmation carries the exact advance, the balance date and the cancellation schedule for your trip. Those numbers, not this page, are the ones that apply. Full terms are on the booking conditions page.

Questions about this trip

Can foreign nationals do the Silk Route?
No. The Zuluk and Nathang circuit is a protected area open to Indian nationals only. This is a central government restriction and there is no way around it. We will suggest an alternative East Sikkim itinerary instead.
How cold does Nathang get?
At 4,100 m it is below freezing at night for much of the year and can be well below it from December to February. The homestays heat the dining room properly; the bedrooms get quilts, not central heating. Bring layers, not one thick coat.
Is the road frightening?
It is narrow, exposed in places, and entirely tarred and regularly used. Drivers who work it do so every week. If you are genuinely uneasy with height, ask for the inside seat and do not sit in front.

General questions: permits, seasons, packing and how to get here

Enquire

Ask about The Old Silk Route: Zuluk & Nathang

Fill this in and we will come back with a proper day-by-day itinerary for your dates, with named hotels and one all-in price. No payment is taken at this stage and nothing is confirmed until you say so.

  • We reply within the working day.
  • The itinerary comes in writing, with the hotels named.
  • Change anything you like before you decide.
  • Your details stay with us. We do not sell or share them.

Send us the basics

This opens WhatsApp with your answers already written out, so you can read them before anything is sent. Prefer email? Send the same details by email. We reply within the working day, and we do not pass your details to anyone else.

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Tell us roughly what you want. We will send back a real itinerary.

Dates, how many of you, and anywhere you have your heart set on — that is enough for us to start. You will get a day-by-day plan with named hotels and one all-in price, in writing, before you pay anything.

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